The survival scenarios of Japanese cuisine around the world: from Tokyo sushi to New York ramen stalls
At 6 a.m. in Shadidy District of London, the chef of "Nami River" sushi restaurant, Sato Keita, was already processing the tuna flown in from the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo for the day. In front of the glass cabinet, the businesspeople in suits were queuing up for a piece of sushi, and some people specially requested that the rice be wrapped with an extra layer of seaweed - this was the "anti-dust-off eating method" invented by the locals. Just three streets away from the breakfast stall, the "Japanese-English mixed breakfast" with English-style muffins and tempura bits was being snapped up by students. This combination, which even the Japanese found novel, has now become a local internet sensation.
In the Manhattan branch of "Yilan Ramen", the queue for the restaurant always lasts for an hour, but the "Xiao Zhu" ramen stall on the corner holds more authentic surprises. The stall owner, the Lin couple who have lived in Brooklyn for twenty years, combined the clam chowder that New Yorkers love to drink with miso and invented "clam miso ramen". The soup needs to be simmered for eight hours, and the noodles are specially selected to be coarser, "Americans like to bite hard, and thin noodles are prone to breaking". Every Friday night, a group of young people always gather in front of the stall. Some hold the ramen bowls and squat on the roadside, using chopsticks to pick up the noodles and dipping them in cheese sauce - this is the "American way of eating" they spontaneously created.
In the "Cherry Blossom Street" of São Paulo, Brazil, the menu of the Japanese cuisine restaurant shows the "sushi roll with black bean rice" set meal, which is a weekend meal prepared for local Japanese families. After the first batch of Japanese immigrants landed in Brazil in 1908, Japanese cuisine here has undergone a century of evolution: sushi rolls are made with local pineapples instead of mangoes, tapioca starch is used instead of starch for thickening, and even raw fish is paired with Brazilian chili sauce. During the Cherry Blossom Festival, the Japanese cuisine restaurants on this street will offer "grilled meat sushi", cutting the Brazilian favorite grilled meat into thin slices and wrapping them in sushi rice, with people queuing from the street to the end of the street.
In the Japanese cuisine restaurant "Umami" at the Dubai Marina Hotel, the chef is decorating the sushi with gold foil, and the display cabinet beside it has mocha pudding made with camel milk - this is a dessert modified for Middle Eastern guests because they are forbidden from eating pork, even the traditional sukiyaki is cooked with beef and coconut milk. While on the street food stalls in Dubai, "Shadai Chicken Sushi Roll" has become a popular choice, and the stall owner mixes Japanese sushi rice with Southeast Asian satay sauce and rolls it up into sections, making it convenient for tourists to eat while walking.
In the "Fish Market Sushi" store in Sydney, the most special thing is the "oyster sushi" made with local fresh oysters. The rice is placed on top of the freshly opened oysters, and a little lemon juice is drizzled on top, loved by seafood lovers. In the Chinatown of Melbourne, "Soy Sauce Fried Rice Sushi" has become a cross-border cuisine, with the chef shaping the Chinese-style soy sauce fried rice into the shape of sushi, wrapped in seaweed, with both Chinese flavor and Japanese appearance.
The establishment and growth of Japanese cuisine in different countries is never a simple copy-and-paste process. Just like the "seaweed wrapped layer" eating method invented by the London office workers and the "clam miso ramen" invented by the Lin couple in Brooklyn, these regional variations of Japanese cuisine are the new sparks created by the collision of local culture and Japanese cuisine. These regionalized Japanese cuisine variations retain the pursuit of fresh ingredients of Japanese cuisine while integrating local people's eating habits, ultimately becoming unique taste memories in each city.
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